Saturday, November 13, 2010

Pencil Me In : A Pencil Skirt Tutorial

My sister in law saw a skirt she liked in a Loft add and said to herself "Why buy it when Nolley can make it?"
I am of the same mine set. I told her I would love to make it for her and now I'd love to show you just how I did -

First we start with our muslin. I measured my sister around her, ahem, widest point and sewed a tube that would fit just that and had her try it on. Now, my other sister in law came in and deemed what we were doing as a "Frisking Fest", and I'm sure it looked like it, but I was pulling in the waist to mark the darts to fit it to her body.
And yeah, I had to touch her butt to do so ;)
(side note- I have found that the best positioning of darts are an equal distance between the persons hip, and center back point - ie, right over the butt cheek)
to mark your dots you pull the fabric in just until it touches the body and mark each side of this pleat, and how far down it goes before the fabric is pulled tight again on the body. When the points are connected, they create the dart you sew on.
using your muslin as a template, cut out of your fabric the main rectangle for the skirt body, then also cut out one long strip (roughly 4-5 inches wide) the same length as your skirt body rectangle, and then cut that strip directly in half.
The strips you cut will be the waistband of the skirt. Taking the two of them and folding them long ways, measure a half inch from one end in, and mark a diagonal line from the fold on the top to the point pf the open end.
Do this with both pieces and cut off this sliver from each. open the pieces up and lay them flat.
pin the two RST and sew together.
open the seam and press down.
fold the band back over on itself WST and run a stitch along the top and bottom sides.
use a zig-zag stitch to close off the open side all around.
sew the skirt body along the short ends RST and close off the seam with a zig-zag.
transfer your marks from your muslin to the wrong side of the skirt.
look closely and you'll see the three marks

Fold the fabric on the dart points and sew them together. I sew an additional two inches or so right along the fold line, to help ease the dart out and not have the fabric "pucker" right over your booty.

lay the skirt down and iron the dart flat
If using a liner for your skirt, you can use the original muslin, or follow all above skirt steps to fit the liner. then place the two skirt pieces together and pin along the top.
square up the skirt and cut along one of the sides the length of the zipper you'll be using, minus about an inch.
take your band and line it up RST with the skirt, starting and ending the band at the cut opening for the zipper.
sew the two together. cut off the excess skirt material almost all the way down to the seam. fold the band up and press. top stitch on the front of the skirt to tack down the band.
Iron open the cut opening for the zipper, also iron the band in on a diagonal line the same half inch as before.
insert the zipper by top stitching it in place. and you have the option of running it to the top of the fabric, or leaving room for a hook and eye (as I did).
hem the bottom and youre done!
Simple and Sexy

~Nolley

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